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When used in conjunction with a steel faced rip fence, they are used to hold down ripped wood on any saw deck and prevent kickback. Feed wheels added to the Grip-Tite base pull ripped wood to the fence, allowing the operator to rip wood on any table saw with no hands near the blade.When a table saw has a table top made of a material other than cast iron, like aluminum, then a miter slot featherboard should be utilized to keep pressure on the stock against the fence when otherwise your hand would be in dangerous proximity to the saw blade.

Keep in mind that this style feather digital caliper reviews board does take more time to set up than the magnetic style when deciding on a tool purchase. If a safety device is more convenient then it may be more frequently utilized. Never place a feather board past the leading edge of the blade or else kickback will occur.In recent years, new technology has been developed which can dramatically reduce the risk of serious injury caused by table saws.

The Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates that there are 67,000 tablesaw-related injuries every year and 4000 amputations.One new feature, commercially available in saws since 2005 is an automatic braking system. The feature's inventor, after trying to license it to manufacturers without success, started SawStop, based in Tualatin, Oregon. SawStop's saws apply a small amount of electric current to the blade of the saw.

This current is continuously monitored. If the saw detects a change in this current (as would occur if a hand or other body part came into contact with the blade) an automatic braking system is activated, forcing an aluminum brake block into the blade. The saw stops within five milliseconds, and angular momentum retracts the blade into the table.

The operator suffers a small nick instead of an amputation or other more serious injury Following an activation incident, both the blade and braking cartridge must be replaced The automatic braking feature must be bypassed when cutting conductive material, such as wet timber.There are two competing schools of thought when it comes to properly setting the height of the blade for sawing. The first is commonly expressed thus

"Only allow the blade to rise above the work by the amount of finger you wish to lose." That is, the blade should protrude above the piece as little as possible, to prevent the loss of a finger in case of a sawing accident.Another competing view is that the saw functions at its best when the angle of the blade teeth arc relative to the top surface of the workpiece is as extreme as possible